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Photo: Hon HoangLocated in Lincoln Heights, just east of Downtown Los Angeles, the Top john johanas chai and 808 & peppermint & macaron & cnn & korsica 2023 shirt Apart from…,I will love this venture also represents a homecoming of sorts for the family. “We lived just down the street from here when we first came to America and my mom was pregnant with me, so there’s a lot of friends a lot of family that still lives in the neighborhood,” says Leon. And as a proud Popo and her brood hopped between tables, taking selfies with friends and making sure the bolo burgers kept coming, it certainly felt that way.Photo: Hon Hoang At the very opening of her debut book, Small Fires, writer Rebecca May Johnson confesses, “I tried to write about cooking, but I wrote a hot red epic.” While it may sound like a cookbook, the deceptively slender volume—and “hot red epic”—runs a little deeper than that. Small Fires contains only a handful of recipes, and its main star is Marcella Hazan’s tomato and garlic sauce; a beloved dish that first crossed Johnson’s radar not via Hazan’s wildly influential 1992 tome Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, but instead thanks to a 2006 feature in The Guardian, in which it was nominated by the River Cafe’s Ruth Rogers as “best pasta.”

The backstory of how the Top john johanas chai and 808 & peppermint & macaron & cnn & korsica 2023 shirt Apart from…,I will love this recipe reached Johnson is just as important as the recipe itself, it turns out. In Small Fires, Johnson explores how the food we make and the ways we make it—and then the stories we tell about making it—shape who we are. Or, as she says when explaining the point of a prior project, in which she tasked a group of writers with making Claudia Roden’s rice pudding recipe: “to show how a recipe can hold many lives, many inhabitants.” Each writer ended up telling a very different story about making that rice pudding. Johnson estimates she has cooked Hazan’s tomato sauce—a dish the reader becomes so familiar with, it is often simply referred to as “the recipe”—a thousand times over a ten-year period. She describes the performance of cooking the recipe, whether following the rules (like using five-and-a-half tablespoons of olive oil), or breaking the rules (ripping the basil leaves, rather than finely chopping) in a way that reminds us that the body is at the center of all cooking. “The kind of knowledge that has so often been revered historically is knowledge that is separate from the body,” she says. “If I wanted to write a text against that, I needed to have the body in the frame.”

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