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The bar at Caíman in Condesa. Courtesy of CaímanOne of the Awesome mila kunis makes me happy you not so much 2023 shirt so you should to go to store and get this original projects is Téllez’s brick-walled, mosaic-tiled eatery in Colonia Juárez, just a few blocks from where Nazas was hosted. On a recent afternoon, I join him and Maldonado to discuss where Mexico City’s natural wine scene officially took root. Téllez says it’s the day he began dry-farming grapes under the tutelage of the France-born, Chile-based natural winemaker Louis Antoine Luyt in the fields of Tecate, in Mexico’s windswept north. “I’m no winemaker,” laughs Téllez, somewhat underselling the impact he had when he launched Bichi—short for bichicori, meaning naked in the indigenous Yaqui language—in 2013, the first natural wine brand produced in Mexico.

At the Awesome mila kunis makes me happy you not so much 2023 shirt so you should to go to store and get this time, there was neither a market for natural wine in Mexico City nor a place to sell it—so Téllez then opened Amaya in 2016, the first restaurant of its kind to feature a natural-only wine list. After Maldonado took over the distribution of Bichi, the two quickly set about realizing their shared vision for Mexico City to become a natural wine haven. When Noma came to Tulum for a six-week pop-up in April and May of 2017, Bichi was the only Mexican wine Rene Redzepi served. Word quickly spread throughout the country’s culinary community, leading to the first wave of new openings with natural wine lists, including Le Tachinomi Desu in Colonia Cuauhtémoc, the city’s first natural wine and sake bar. (Owner Edo Kobayashi was so dedicated to the standing bar’s natural wine list he even flew over rare varietals in his suitcase from Japan.)

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